Thonburi is the western part of Bangkok, and begins on the west banks of the Chao Phraya River. It was the capital of Thailand for a short time during the reign of King Taksin, after the ransacking of old capital Ayutthaya by the Burmese. However, in 1782 King Rama I moved the capital to the other side of the river, and called it Bangkok (Krungthep).
Having stayed an independent province until it was merged into Bangkok in 1972, Thonburi has avoided much of the modern development seen elsewhere. Its man-made network of khlongs - Khlong Mon, Khlong Bangkok Noi - retain much of their ramshackle charm. Due to their connection to the tidal Chao Phraya river they are also much less polluted than, say, Khlong Saen Saeb (the central city khlong). Sights include the Royal Barges Musuem and the Wat Arun temple.
River Boats?
Yes, you can hire a colourful painted long-tail boat (hang yao) and go exploring. Agree on the price before departure (400 - 500 baht per hour; negotiable). You can hire them at Tha Chang ferry pier, near the Grand Palace, or the pier at the River City Shopping Complex. However bear in mind that he's your driver not your guide. His English may be minimal but he will know where to go.
Ask to explore Khlong Mon, Klong Bangkok Noi and Klong Bangkok Yai, and also the Royal Barges Museum, which contains splendidly decorated boats and barges completely unique to Thailand. Sound tricky? Try the Khlongs Tour or the Canals Route Tour instead - they're hassle free and include pick-up and drop-off at your hotel.
The Experience
These khlongs are the real deal. Within minutes of boarding a colourful long-tail I am in a lush, criss-crossing world of interconnecting canals. Khlong Mon - my first stop - is as quaint as they come. Old, weathered teak homes alternate with modern town houses, crumbling shacks and the odd temple. Small boat's travel up and down river. People are scrubbing clothes, sleeping or throwing scraps to fish - or waving at me.
Everywhere I look poking out from between the rusty water and civilization is green tenacious plantlife: bushes, palms and patches of morning glory. And on the water itself huge gangs of water hyacinth float drift beside us (apparently its collected regularly and dried to make durable woven furniture or Thai crafts). Honestly, this doesn't feel like Bangkok at all...
Khlong Bangkok Noi is wider and bolder - more river than canal. It is lined with factories, temples and navy installations as well as homes. We stop at the Royal Barges Museum, where the elaborately gilded barges used in solemn Royal ceremonies can be seen up close. From ramshackle through to just plain grand, Thonburi reveals a whole new facet of Bangkok.
The verdict
Fancy a place where the quiet rhythms of daily life continue largely unchanged? Fancy exploring a ramshackle world of criss-crossing canal networks that sub-divide into even narrower canals, and are all lined with old wooden houses and pots of colourful flowers? Or just fancy a go on one of those wooden long-tail boats? If the answers yes, head for the still rustic, still sleepy khlongs of Thonburi.
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