Ask different people what gives Bangkok's club and bar scene its irresistable swagger and every time you'll get a different answer. Many would say it's the city's swanky, clubs like New-York style lounge Q Bar, ultrachic Bed Supperclub or its trendy rooftop venues. Others would disagree, saying it's the places playing Bangkok's youth music of choice: bland, repetitive commercial hip-hop. Still more would say it's the live bands that churn out rock and hip-hop covers on endless rotation.
However at the sharper, sassier, more exciting end of Bangkok's nightlife there's a growing alternative 'after dark' scene that caters to those a little bit more picky about their venues, a little more discerning about their sounds. For you, here's our quick romp through 'Alternative Nightlife'; from classy blues bars and fetish clubs to proper dance parties, gay dark rooms and salsa happenings.
Get on the groove
While the former government's 'social order' campaign to clean up the city's risque image and halt the moral decay of its youth has brought an abrupt end to all-night partying, there's still an awful lot of party spirit found in Bangkok. In fact, this spirit seems to be burning as brightly as ever. And nowhere is this more in evidence than with Bangkok's alternative nightlife scene. These are hard to pin down, but can loosely be categorized as the nights out that aren't so much driven by door takings, as by the passion and devotion of those seeking out the music or experiences they love.
One whole subset of this alternative lifestyle is occupied by the growing number of underground parties popping up. Attended by the city's hippest youngsters, these nights are the stomping ground of the arty set and those dissatisfied with the by-numbers sounds offered by the clubbing big-boys. At their helm are enterprising youngsters infused with a DIY spirit - not businessmen but young adults who have cottoned on to the fact that they can do it themselves and, often, better. The results can be impressive: while a recent night at RCA's Astra for Ministry of Sound on a Saturday night - probably the biggest international corporate clubbing brand - was less than half full, a Thursday night that week at the same venue for one of these 'parties' was rammed.
Dude/Sweet
That party was the latest Dude/Sweet event, undoubtedly the biggest DIY success story. Started up by a young 26 year-old Thai student/promoter, this has grown into the capital's hippest night out, with a whole army of hip young things in attendance, rocking out to the latest indie sounds. Helping foster its 'movement' status has been the Internet and the 'myspace' community, as well as tasty appearances from local acts such as Futon (who themselves put on a night called Rehab at Bed Supperclub once a month) and obscure international bands. Such is the clout of the Dude/Sweet brand that they are now coveted and courted by the mainstream, with invites to DJ at fashion shows, shopping malls and festivals as far off as Japan. There's even a magazine called Supersweet.
Spurred on by Dude/Sweet's success, other people are starting up their own nights, of which the beneficiaries are you, the punter. All that's needed it seems is a venue (which in Bangkok are plentiful), a concept (preferably wacky), a few devotees, and a playlist of preferably raw, uncompromising music. These include Chicks Rock, which has girl-only DJs playing music exclusively from sassy girl musicians and girl bands, Club Professionals (Caf- Democ every Tuesday), which gives punters the chance to DJ and win half the door takings, as well as other recent start-ups like indie night Arcadia and Rock the 'Kok. These nights eschew the golden rules of clubland, by being irregular word of mouth 'events', choosing atypical, often hard to find venues and being predominantly driven by word of mouth. This lowkey approach seems to work, by only heightening the anticipation and 'event' status for those attending. For those not in the know, these can be hard to find, so keep your ear to the ground or eyes glued to the Internet.
The crack of a whip
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At the naughtier end of alternative nightlife, there are even places where you can feed your fetish. For all your BDSM (bondage, domination, sadism and masochism) needs, head for BarBar in Patpong's Soi 2. The famous entertainment district's only fetish club, this is the real deal for anyone interested in dominating, being dominated or, if your more a voyeur, just watching. The first floor is a calming wash of blood red velvet, candle-light and chilled sounds, but don't be fooled - steel cages, girls clad in tight PVC corsets and wielding heavy-duty whips, chains and various other torturous instruments await. Filling the gothic air every so often is the crack of a whip, followed promptly by a scream (of pleasure or pain its hard to tell!) as a customer gets what he, or she, came for. Soon, once the second floor opens, you'll even be able to get a firm telling off from schoolteacher, locked in a school-locker, or, once the fetish boutique opens, buy that studded leash you've been hankering after.
Rainbow Fun
For the extreme end of gay nightlife there's DJ Station, where people gyrate to earsplitting rhythms on the cramped, sweaty dance floor most nights; bare-chested and the air filled with tangible testosterone. Head up to the 'dark room' for some don't-kiss-and-tell action. More xxx-rated fun is to be had at Babylon, the biggest gay sauna in Asia, or if you're on the voyeur end of the spectrum, there's lots of real (and live) action to gawk at in one of Soi Twilight's many boys-only Go-Go bars. (Have a look at our gay section for a complete listing of venues.)
Hidden Gems
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In a town where many complain that promoters pander to the lowest common denominator and many big clubbing venues have been squeezed out, Bangkok is still notable for its profusion of little, tucked-away venues playing music just for the love of it. Hidden away up stairwells, down little sois, these are little nightlife jewels where crooning folksingers, Thai ska bands or jazz outfits work their magic. Notable are live venues such as the blues bar Saxophone, which as a 15 year-old Bangkok institution is not strictly alternative - but certainly refreshingly uncompromising. Then there's Tokyo Joe's and Ad Here the 13th. In Rattanakosin island, Phra Arthit Road is also a good bet for some soothing Thai acoustic melodies, as is new discovery Bird Eye View Bar on Khao San Road, resident to the most raucous young-ska band in the Southern hemisphere probably. However, while recommendations are always helpful, the most satisfying times are always had via a mixture of word-of-mouth and self-discovery.
Latin is also big here. For Salsa and Tango heads there's The Bar at Fogo Vivo, Bangkok's only dedicated Brazilian venue. Here you can find music from across the Latin landscape, as well as Salsa classes and Lambada on Wednesday nights.
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